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Instruction book for the PFAFF Sewing Machine (Model 130)
For best results, study these instructions carefully – particularlythose parts on the care of the machine. Before leaving the factoryyour PFAFF was adjusted, carefully tested, and found to be perfectin every respect. If you follow the simple suggestions outlined here,you will enjoy your PFAFF … find it endlessly useful … and, through-outthe years be glad that your choice is the finest sewing machine in theworld.
I. Useful hints
To help you get the best results with your PFAFF
Use fine thread and a fine needle adjusted for loose tension whensewing thin, light fabrics.
For ordinary lock stitch or zigzag seams, regulate the tension so thatthe interlacing of upper and under threads takes place in the centerof the stitching. For making buttonholes, stitching on buttons,eyeletting, rolled seams, and hemstitching, the tension of the underthread should be somewhat tight, since it is desirable to have the threadsinterlock more towards the underside of the fabric.
Use unglazed thread for ordinary sewing, and soft yarn for embroidering,darning, etc. Since these yarns are smoother and more flexible thanthe hard and brittle glazed cotton, they assure well-drawn-in stitches,thus protecting the seams when the fabric is washed.
Skipping of stitches may be caused by:
- Needles not having been inserted properly.
- Using other than the recommended PFAFF Needles.
- Needle being bent by wrong handling, or too finefor the thread used.
Thread breaking may be caused by:
- Any of the three reasons mentioned above.
- Tension too tight.
- Using bad or knotty thread.
Bad stitches may be caused as a result of:
- Tensions being too loose or too tight. Both tensions should be equal.
- Using needles and threads that do not conform to the thickness ofthe fabric. Top and bottom thread should be the same.
- Fluff having accumulated between the upper tension discs, or underneaththe tension spring of the bobbin case.
Heavy working of the machine may be caused by:
- The motor belt having become too loose after constant use, therefore,not pulling properly. In that case, the motor bracket has to be adjusted.
- The motor belt being too tight. Do not over-tighten it.
- The shuttle race being obstructed by fluff, which must be removed.
- The machine having become clogged. Note the following instructionsfor proper oiling and cleaning.
II. To oil and clean the machine
Apply rust-proof grease on all nickel-plated and polished parts. This done,all greased parts should be cleaned with a clean rag. Then, apply a littlePFAFF Sewing Machine Oil at the poiling points marked with arrows inFigures 1, 2, and 3.
After raising the presser foot, run the machine for a little while withoutthread, wipe off the down-dripping oil and apply a drop of PFAFF SewingMachine Oil to all points where there is friction. Make it a rule toclean and oil the machine from time to time, especially when it has been inconstant use, or has not been used for a long time.
VERY IMPORTANT: Before using the machine for the first time, apply to thehook a drop of PFAFF Sewing Machine Oil.
Keep the oil can clean.
The needle plate should be taken off frequently and cleaned ofaccumulated fluff on the underside.
III. The needle
If the needle is inserted incorrectly, the top thread will jam in thehook, and tear. The correct way to install the needle is with the flatof the shank towards the hand lift.
In general, follow this simple rule: Use a finer needle for finer threadand a heavier needle for heavier thread.
IV. Feeding
If the material does not feed (move), turn presser bar pressure screw to theright to increas the pressure. There sould be as little pressure as possibleon the presser bar – use just enough to feed the material.
Too much pressure causes excessive wear in feeder and foot.
When in doubt, call in qualified PFAFF mechanic.
IMPORTANT – When inserting a new needle, make sure that the needlethumb screw is loose enough to permit you to slide the needle all the wayup to the stop pin, then tighten the thumb screw. If the needle is notinserted in this way, it will cause SKIPPING of stitches, and possible needlebreakage.
1. Threading the needle
Put spool on spindle, draw through hook guide 1, around circular guide 2,around the tension discs 3, and through check spring 4, around guides 5 and6, and into the lower hole of the take-up 7, down through thread guide 8into guide above the needle 9 – and thread needle from front to back (Fig. 4).
2. To set the needle
LOOSEN lock screw above needle clamp. Insert needle with flat shank to back,tighten lock screw – and you’re ready to sew.
3. To remove bobbin case (Fig. 5)
Turn the machine back on its hinges. Open latch in bobbin case by graspinglatch between thumb and forefinger (it is easier with the left hand) – andpull. The bobbin case comes right out. To remove the bobbin, release latchagain and the bobbin with drop right out. Practice a few times, so as to getused to this operation.
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4 To wind the bobbin (Fig. 6)
For beginners, it is suggested that the balance wheel be disconnected sothat the machine will not turn. For experienced operators, the balance wheelcan remain connected if desired so that a bobbin can be wound while sewingon a garment. Wind thread around the bobbin a couple of times away from you.Place bobbin on winder spindle so that the single slot fits into the pinon the side of the winder spindle.
Place spool of thread 1 on either spool holder (1). Draw thread down betweentension disc 2 to the botton placed on winder spindle 3. Press down onwinder catch 4 to lock bobbin in winding position. now you re ready towind bobbin. Turn on power until bobbin is wound. If you do not wish towind the bobbin to capacity, press winder disconnect lever 5. When bobbinis full, release is automatic.
5. To replace bobbin case (Fig. 7)
https://roulettenew228.weebly.com/cricut-explore-air-user-manual-pdf.html. Slip bobbin into bobbin case, and draw the thread through the bobbin caseslot 1, away from you, under tension spring 2. Turn machine back on itshinges exposing base for bobbin case. With bobbin case latch opened,between thumb and forefinger, slip bobbin into center hook and drop latchback. Push down bobbin case with thumb to make sure that case is lockedin position.
6. To commence sewing
IMPORTANT – Turn wheel towards you to pick-up bobbin thread.
Allow needle to descend and rise once. The under thread then appears inthe form of a loop out of the needle hole.
Then lower presser foot by means of presser foot lever. Draw both upperand lower thread ends under the presser foot, and to the rear.
To protect presser foot and feed, never operate machine without placingfabric under the presser foot.
With the cloth inserted and the presser foot lowered, turn the balancewheel towards you. At the same time, give a slight pressure with yourknee against the knee control – or against the foot control on someportable models.
7. To remove the work
Stop the machine. Turn the balance wheel toward you until the take-up (seesection on threading the needle) is at its highest point. (Or turn thewheel to complete the stitch.) raise presser foot. (On lifting the presserfoot, the tension is automatically released.) Draw the cloth to the rearof the needle. Cut the thread close to the material on the thread cutter
8. To regulate the tension of the upper thread
The tension of the upper thread is regulated of tension nut (M) (Fig. 4)Turning this screw clockwise, the tension will become tighter. Unscrewingit, counterclockwise, it will become looser.
Having adjusted the tension for a certain kind of thread (you can bestjudge this tension for yourself by pulling the thread gently with yourhand when you have threaded the machine through the tension spring), justglance at the number marked in the bell behind the tension nut, and noteits relative position. Imagej manual tracking plugin download.
If the upper tension is too loose, the under thread will pull down theupper thread, forming little knots or loops as shown in Fig. 8. If theupper tension is too tight, the under thread is drawn up, as illustratedin fig. 9. Fig. 10 shows the locking in the wo threads in the center ofthe material, as a result of the proper adjustment of bothtensions.
9. To regulate tension of the under thread
If the tension is too loose, take the bobbin case out of themachine (Fig. 5) and tighten the small tension screw (Z) ina clockwise direction with the aid of the screwdriver. If thetension is too tight, unscrew it in a counter-clockwise direction(Fig. 11).
10. to regulate the length of stitch
The length of the stitches is regulated by the stitchregulator screw. (Fig. 6). In the zero – (or neutral) – position thereis no feeding at all. The numbers above zero are for forward stitching;the space below for reverse stitching.
Loosen regular screw, and push up to desired position from 1 to 5.Position one is the smallest stitch. When you have chosen the sideof stitch you want, tighten the screw. To sew in reverse, simplypush the locked screw downward, below position zero. It willautomatically sew the same size stitch in reverse.
11. The Dial-A-Stitch
If the nose of the Dial-A-Stitch lever (G), (Fig. 12), is on point zeroof the scale, the machine is performing the straight stitch. If you turnthe lever, (G), to the left, the machine is doing the zigzag stitch. The widthof the zigzag stitch is increased as the lever, (G), is turned to theleft, bringing the width of the zigzag stitch up to a maximum of 11/64'.
If lever H (Fig. 12) is pressed against the body of the machine, and thenshifted down into position II, the machine will sew to the right of the stitchmade in the normal position. In position III, it will sew still farthurto the right, continuing the same kind of stitch for which the dial is set.This is useful for applique, fancy stitching, straight sewing, embroidery,buttonholes, and sewing on buttons.
If the machine is not running, the shifting procedure should not be made,or the sizeof the zigzag stitch should not be changed, unless theneedle is raised. Otherwise, the needle might be bent or broken.
12. To take apart and clean the hook (Fig. 13)
If pieces of thread, lint or dust have gotten inside the hook, impedingthe action of the machine, it is necessary to remove the upper and lowerparts of the bobbin case. Turn the balance wheel so as to see clearlyscrews E-1, E-2, and E-3. Unscrew these, and take off the hook bow.NOTE: Since these screws are extremely small, it is necessary to usegreat care so as not to lose them.
Grap center hook between thumb and forefinger, and turn the balance wheelgently until the lower case slips out. Clear out the dirt with a cloth, andput a drop of oil on the running surface under the case. Replace lowerbobbin case. Do not force it, as it will damage the part.Replace the hook bow, and screw the three screws backinto position. If this is difficult, do not force it – call for yourmechanic. Parts damaged by force will not be replaced free of charge.
13. To regulate pressure of the presser foot
Screw or unscrew the bushing (V), (Fig. 4), to increase or decreasepressure of the presser foot, and to regulate it for the type ofmaterial used.
14. Adjusting the tension of the thread controller spring
For embroidering and darning, ease the tension of the thread controllerspring a little more than in the case of sewing. When working on thickor hard materials, the tension should be tighter. To tighten the tension,turn the lever of the tension sleeve as shown in Fig. 4.
- indicating the position for darning and embroidering;
- indicating the normal position;
- indicating the position for sewing thick and hard materials.
The direction for turning the lever is indicated by “L” for loose (light) and“F” for fast (tight).
15. The needle
Make sure that you use the PFAFF needles designed for your machine – NeedleSeries 130R. These are finely machined, tempered and polished steel, andare available in sizes 7 to 11, for the most delicate to the heaviest sewing.
16. To lower the feed
For darning and embroidering, the feed can be lowered by turning the knob (X),(Fig. 6), on the front right-hand side of the bed plate. Turn it right tolower the feed; turn it left to raise the feed.
NO ATTACHMENTS ARE NEEDED for all normal sewing and most types of fancysewing. The PFAFF comes equipped with a hinged presser foot,No. 44088 (Fig. 14), which is used for these purposes. This should remain on yourmachine most of the time.To remove it, loosen the screw, and lift the presserfoot out to the left. To replace it, slip it back into position, holding itfirmly in place between the thumb and forefinger of the right hand andtighten the screw.
Netgear xet1001 manual software download. For plain sewing the standard type of presser foot, No. 45037, (Fig. 15), isincluded for those who prefer to use it.
17. Sewing on buttons (fig. 16 and 17)
Use foot No. 46120 for sewing on two- or four-hole buttons,for snaps, hooks, and small bone or metal rings.(Fig. 18). Lower lever H of the Dial-A-Stitch into position IIIwith dial set to as far as the right as possible. Lower the feed.
With stitch regulator set between 1 and 2, place button on fabric,under button foot, so that needle passes through center of righthole of the button. Then adjust the zigzag stitch with the dialso that the needle passes through the center of the left hole ofthe button.
To fix the button to the fabric, four or five double stitches willdo. When stitching on buttons having four holes, place the fabricwith the button as far back as necessary to permit fastening thesecond pair of holes, too.
At the last stitch, leave the needle at the right and adjust themachine for straight stitches of which a few will suffice to lockthe stitch.
18. Buttonholes (Fig. 19 and 20)
Screw on buttonhole foot, No. 42297, (Buttonholes can be made withor without cord. The cord used can be varied, depending on yourchoice, from the finest to Pearl Cotton No. 5).
For corded buttonhole, draw the cord through the hole in the buttonholefoot, towards the rear. The tension of the supper and under threadmust be tightened to obtain a well drawn-in stitch.
The length of the buttonhole should be marked in pencil onthe fabric.
With Dial-a-Stitch lever H in position I, (Fig. 12), adjust stitchregulator between zero and one. Adjust the fineness of the zigzagstitch with screw B, t the left of
the dial, according to the heaviness of cording used. If the zigzagis set at number two, this is adequate for most cordings.
After the preparations, the first edge is sewn to the marked length.When this is done, leave the needle at the right side of this edgein the fabric. Now, rise the presser bar and swing the fabric halfaround, clockwise, so that the edge now lies at the right of the needle,parallel to the cord guide. Keep the work clean. Cut off excess cord.This makes neater buttonholes.Then lower the presser bar and allow the needle to make one morestitch to the left.
The needles is now in the fabric at the left of the cord. Raise theneedle and push lever G into its second groove by turning it to theleft. In this way, the wider zigzag stitch for the first bar tackis set. To make the bar, four to fice zigzag stitches are necessary, andwhile doing thses, the fabric must be held somewhat to reduce theforward feeding. On making the last stitch of the bar, leave the needlesin the favric to the left. Then, bring the needle up and push lever Gback into its first groove in the posiiton in which you sewd the firstedge. Now sew edge two. Readjust the lever into the second groove to makethe second bar tack, being sure that the needles is raised before switchingthe zigzag lever. This second bar tack made, again raise the needle andpush lever G back to the farthest position on the right and makesome plain stitches to lock the threads.
The cutting of the buttonhole is made with the buttonhole knife. Thismust be performed with care to avoid damaging the buttonhole threads.Insert either the narrow or the broad blade into the holder and fastenit by tightening the screw.
19. Ornamental seams
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For plain and straight ornamental seams use the normal presser foot.For parallel seams use the edge stitcher with ruler, No. 41350.By skillfully alternating straight and zigzag stitches of varyingwidth and length, you can make any number of attractive patterns –especially interesting as dress decorations. (Fig. 21)
An additional variety of effects is produced by alternating seams to theright and left of centers. (Fig. 22). To sew left of center, push leverH up; to sew right of center, push lever H down.
Colored thread is often used to enhance the appearance of the work.
20. Overedged hems
Overedged hems are very popular for trimming ladies and children’s dresses,underwear, etc. Fold the edge as required and baste if necessary.Then cover the folded edge with zigzag stitches, small to medium-small,at a stitch length of 1/16th inch. Cut the projecting edge offcarefully with a pair of scissors.
A additional ornamental seam, parallel to the edging, adds a handsomeeffect. (Fig. 23).
21. Applique work
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Trace the design on both fabrics, with the cloth to be appliqued extending1/16th inch beyond the edge of the design. Place the cutting on the fabricso it corresponds to the pattern, and baste it on.
Follow the lines of the design with a narrow and not too densezigzag stitch, and cut the projecting edges off the cutting.Then reinforce the seam with a wider and more dense zigzag seam(See Fig. 24 and 25).
If a card is to be appliqued, or a more raised effect is desired, use thespecial cording foot No. 41621. (Fig. 26). This is available at extra cost.
22. Running on lace
This is done with the regular sewing foot, unless cord is to be used.If so, use foot No. 41621. (Fig. 26).
With strong fabric such as linen, shirting, etc, the lace is applied1/16th inch from the edge, and basted on if necessary. The edge of thelace is then covered with zigzag stitches and the projecting fabriccut off.
In the case of finer fabrics such as voile and cambric, the lace is sewnon with straight stitch as above described.
Then the projecting edge of the fabric is folded under, the double edgeis covered with zigzag stitches, and the projecting fabric cut off.In this manner, opening of the fabric is made impossible.
If special, clean-edge lace borders are desired for sewing curtains,bed linens, etc., a special foot, No. 41746, is available at extra cost.This curls the edge of the fabric under as the lace is sewn on. (Fig. 27).By holding the lace back, or letting it go forward, lace borders canbe shirred or sewn on flat.
Even hems (Fig. 30)
Even hems are sewn by using hemming foot, No. 41246, (Fig. 28), or withthe larger hemming foot, No. 41248, (Fig. 29), with the machine set forstraight zigzag stitch.With light tension and medium-sized zigzag stitches, the rolled edge ofthe fabric remains even and smooth. With tight tension and broad zigzagstitches on undulating rolled hem is obtained, especially desirable in thecase of knitted silk goods. Special effects are obtained by usingthread of different shades.
Felling (Fig. 32)
For felling, use rhe felling foot No. 41242. (Fig. 31). Place the twofabrics together so that the lower layer projects about ¼' on theright side. Then guide the two pieces into the feller, just as whenhemming. The lower fabric is then folded once, and sewn to the toppiece.Now infold the two pieces of cloth as shown in Fig. 32, flatten theseam, and once more guide the edge thus formed through the feller.When felling, using the straight lock stitch, except for thin orelastic fabrics and knitted goods, which require a medium-sized zigzagstitch for good strong seamd.
Embroidering and darning
Remove the presser foot and lower the feed. Raise the presser bar,place wire clamp (A) with its bent end around the shank of foot screw(B); and with the short end into hole © of the face plate. (Fig. 33).By lowering the presser bar lever, the thread tension is re-established.It is helpful to use an embroidery ring in any convenient size.For darning, use soft, mercerized cotton No. 40 to 80, dependingon the thickness of the fabric.
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If large parts are to be mended, we recomment cutting out the damaged pieces,inserting a fresh piece of fabric, and fastening it with zigzag stitches,as shown in Fig. 34
26. Covered cords
Covered cords are made with the feed cover plate and cord guide No. 41842,in addition to the cording foot, N. 41319 with five grooves. All of theseare available at a slight extra cost.
Embroidery yarn No. 40, sewing silk, or standard sewing cotton, may be used.Crocht yard No. 3 or 5 can serve as cord.
Pass the crochet yarn through the cording guide, and place the fabric underthe presser foot. Sew the cord on the line you have traced, with amedium zig-zag stitch.
Soft cording effects can be obtained by using a filler thread.This, (as shown in Fig. 35), is done with smaller zigzag stitches.
27. Ruffling
Ruffling is done with thr same type of cording mentioned above. (See Fig. 36).
Fasten one end of the filler thread, and tighten it after completing theseam. The fabric can now be puckered together for uniform ruffling.The opposite end of the card must be fixed, to prevent the rufflingfrom becoming undone.
28. Hemstitching (Fig. 37)
First draw the threads according to the pattern, just as if hemstitchingby hand. The two edges where the threads have been drawn must now be sewnwith narrow zigzag stitches, using the regular presser foot. The lengthof stitch depends on the effect you wish to obtain. When sewing thesecond edge, make sure that the same threads are covered, and that thelength of stitch is the same as on the first edges, to assure a uniformappearance. For this work an embroidery ring is very useful.
29. Picot edging
Picot edging is obtained by cutting the above hemstitched hem alongthe center. (Fig. 38). This type of edging is used to prevent theunravelling of the plain cloth-edge.
30. Rolled hems
Rolled hems are produced with the aid of sewing foot No. 46261 × 1,5(Fig. 39). use small zigzag stitches to ensure a neat effect.
31. Scalloped rolled hems (Fig. 41)
Scalloped rolled hems on knitted goods are made withfoot N. 46261 × 3, available at extra cost. Thescalloped form of the hem is the result of the widezigzag stitch sewn with firm tension.
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32. Scalloped edge (Fig. 42)
On neck pieces and lingerie straps of heavy knit goods, therolled hem described above is too thick. In this case, themaking of a scalloped edge with edge stitcher No. 41350 and theruler with cording guide, No 26862, is recommended.The latter on is available at slight extra cost.
V. Mechanical Adjustments
(These are suggested only for those who have complete mechanicalfamiliarity with the machine.)
1. Setting the height of the needle bar
Remove the face plate. Make sure dial is set on zero, and lever (H)is set in center. Turn hands wheel until needle bar is at lowest point.Loosen needle-bar clamp lockscrew. Lower needle-bar until the top of theeye of the needle is level with the top of the base of the hook.Hold needle bar so that it does not move, and lock with needle-bar clamplock-screw.
Now the height of the needle bar is set, and you can proceedwith the timing of the hook.
2. Timing of the Hook
Set zigzag dial on Position 4( widest stitch). Loosen the two lock-screwsof the hook and take off base stop.Turn hand wheel until needle bar is on extreme left, and at thelowest point. Bring the point of the hook around to the needle.Hold it there and turn hand wheel in direction of rotation(towards front of machine) until the top of the eye of the needleis approximately 1/32' below the bottom of the point of the hook.Bring the hook as close as possible to the needle without touchingthe needle, and lock the hook in position on the hook shaft.Replace base stop, and push it towards the front of the machine untilyou’ve got a least 1/32“ or more clearance between the base stopand the base. Now the hook is timed.